Our journey to the coast began in the fresh, damp morning air. We started in the van, leaving Grantown-on-Spey and the Cairngorms behind to cross the vast Dava Moor. Just a few miles out, we unloaded the E-bikes on a side road flanking a tern habitat. Fortunately, the hundreds of birds kept their distance—and their droppings—to themselves! The wind was brutal, but thank goodness for electric assist. It was a wild ride across a barren landscape, emphasized by the massive, crashing whitecaps on a loch we passed along the way. Seven miles later, we took refuge at a bustling cafe tucked a quarter-mile off the main road. It was packed to the gills with, motorcyclist, bicyclists, drivers, and tourists seeking the same caffeine fix and relief from the wind. Like most days, it started to rain when we were leaving the cafe. But, unlike most other days, this rain pounded us and by the time we reached Forres, about 8 miles later, we were soaked through to our skin. Our guides dec...