Edzell to Ballater

The first big climb of the day weighed heavily on our minds as we cycled through the pretty village of Fettercairn. Though it’s a quiet place with a population of only about 250, we knew something challenging was waiting just beyond its borders. As the road began to tilt upward, we were immediately hit with a grueling 16% grade. It was a painful start, though thankfully, the incline gradually lessened over the course of our two-mile ascent. When we finally conquered the climb, any lingering pain vanished. Cairn O’Mount rewarded us with spectacular, sweeping views that made our struggle worthwhile. At the true summit, we celebrated by the ancient stone cairn—a monument said to be 4,000 years old. To mark the achievement, we indulged in ginger cake and cherry juice, the latter supposedly being the "magical" potion used to restore tired professional cyclists. Looking out, we took in the panoramic views of the wind-swept, heathery hills before gearing up for the exciting descent, which likely set new personal speed records for most of us.

Our next stop was a welcome lunch at a cafe tucked away in the absolute middle of nowhere. Shortly after a wonderful meal we set off again, a soft rain began to fall, casting a moody, atmospheric glow over the incredibly picturesque landscapes we weaved through. We finished our day's journey by following the winding ribbon of the River Dee straight into Ballater, a charming village nestled in the heart of Cairngorms National Park.

Our home for the night is a unique hotel that was once a historic pub, originally owned by a close friend of Rudyard Kipling. In the room that formerly housed the bar, there is a stunning mural based on his classic tale, The Jungle Book.

While the afternoon rain had stayed relatively light, it felt incredible to finally get dry and warm inside. About an hour after we settled in, the skies truly opened up, and a heavy downpour began to lash against the windows—leaving us profoundly thankful to be safe, warm, and indoors.

Pictures

Pictures A walk around Ballater

Today's Map

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